Glossary

Algae Extract A blend of active algal components including: polysaccharides (sugars) that act as natural humectants; alginates, an excellent moisturizer and elasticizer for the skin; fucoidanes or components from Fucus vesiculosis, that consist of sulfated polysaccharides that stimulate circulation; polyphenols bound to iodine and bromine, that act as anti septic, anti-inflammatory agents and anti-oxidants; fucosterol, an excellent emollient, blood stimulant, diuretic and moisturizing agent.

Alginated Zinc Triplex A combination of Hydrolyzed Algin (which is derived from Brown Seaweed) and Zinc Sulfate to reduce the confitions favorable to acne by helping to regulate sebum (oil) production, destroy acne bacteria and reduce skin inflammation.

Alpha lipoic acid is an extremely important antioxidant that destroys many of the free-radicals that are harmful to the human body. Lipoic acid is both water and fat soluble.
Lipoic acid is a well-known natural substance found in certain foods and also produced in the human body

Allantoin An essential extract of the comfrey plant. An unsurpassed natural healing agent for the skin. Has the ability to help heal minor wounds and skin ulcers, and to stimulate the growth of healthy skin cells.

Aloe Vera Aloe gel has been used for centuries in skin care. Aloe gel has produced startling results in replenishing lost moisture from the skin. When applied to skin injuries, minor wounds, chemical or radiation burns, poison ivy, rash, etc., aloe vera works very quickly with dramatic results. The application of aloe vera on burns produces soothing relief immediately.

Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Palmitate Vitamin C. A preservative and anti-oxidant used to help prevent free radical damage in the skin. The white or pale yellow powder will darken slightly when exposed to the air.

Azelaic acid
It breaks down and removes the dead cells on the skin surface. It also kills bacteria on the skin The removal of the top layer of skin results in the unblocking of the sebaceous glands (glands which secrete sebum), which have become blocked in acne. This reduces inflammation of the gland as the sebum can then escape. Bacteria on the skin feed on sebum and produce waste products which also inflame the sebaceous glands, causing acne. Azelaic acid reduces their numbers by reducing their food source (sebum) and by directly killing them. It is useful for both comedonal acne and inflammatory acne. It also lightens the scars

Bearberry Extract Derived from the Arctostaphyllos Uva Ursi plant. Contains a natural hydroquinone sugar complex that is more stable than synthetically-derived hydroquinone. Used in an encapsulated liposomal form that delivers the active ingredients directly to the cellular level. Fades hyperpigmentation spots on the skin by interfering with melanin synthesis.

Benzoyl Peroxide An oxygen releasing chemical which causes drying, peeling and antibacterial action on the skin. Used for acne lesions, benzoyl peroxide is the number one acne medication recommended by doctors. The release of oxygen is important to combat the anaerobic bacteria present in the acne-affected follicles. The peeling and drying effects peel the acne pustules and open up the comedones.
 
Bioflavonoids Naturally found throughout the plant kingdom. Clinical studies have demonstrated that bioflavonoids reduce edema which is partly ascribed to a protective effect on the capillary endothelium and partly to an improved velocity and volume of blood flow. Hence one can say, bioflavonoids help reduce inflammatory edema while stimulating circulation.

Bromelain A proteolytic enzyme (digests proteins), obtained from the pineapple plant, a perennial herb with many varieties. The bromelain may be derived from either the stem or the fruit juices. Bromelain hydrolyzes proteins and digests dead cells on the surface of the skin.

Camphor A cooling and antiseptic extract, with firming and toning properties to the skin. Extracted from the bark of 50 year old trees in China, Borneo and Japan.

Coneflower Extract Extracted from the native American plant, Echinacea angustifolia, coneflower extract was originally used as an antidote for snake bites and other venomous conditions. The juice of the root was used to heal burns and soothe topical pain. Coneflower extract has been clinically demonstrated to aid in healing and act as an anti-inflammatory agent.

Comfrey Highly-prized in the Middle Ages for it's healing properties, Comfrey helps to reduce skin inflamation, soothe irritation and improve skin texture.

Cornflower Extract Used as an anti-inflammatory extract, and obtained from the flowers of the plant. Very soothing and sedating to the skin and mucous membranes. Similar in action to the essential oil of chamomile called azulene. Often used around the eye area as an anti-red measure.

Corn Oil Obtained from wet-milling the grain of "zea mays" (Indian corn) used as an emollient and softener.

EGF (Epidermal growth factors) is a highly stabilized form of protein peptides. They are naturally produced in our skin cells and act as "traffic policemen" in directing different nutrients to different destinations. Without the guidance of growth factors, nutrients might have difficulty in reaching target receptor sites resulting in slow healing of scars and skin imperfections. Epidermal growth factors help stimulate cell division and proliferation, which leads to healthier skin and faster wound healing.

Eucalyptus Oil A strong antiseptic with healing and stimulating properties. A vaso-dilator that improves blood circulation.

Evening Primrose Oil An essential fatty acid oil, rich in gamma-linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids. Also known as Vitamin FF. Hydrating to the skin, it helps restore the moisture and lipid balance to dry skin conditions.

Geranium Oil Anti-inflammatory and soothing. Used for skin irritations and dermatitis.
Gingko Extract Also known as "maidenhair" tree. An extract of the "gingko biloba" plant, a sacred tree to the Chinese, increases moisture retention in the upper layers of the skin, and soothes irritation in sensitive skins. Rich in bioflavenoids.

Glycolipids A plant-derived mixture of glycoceramides that enhance and restore the barrier function of the skin, regulate the skin's ability to bind and retain moisture and help restore the intercellular regulatory balance.

Glycosaminoglycans The skin is composed of two distinct areas, epidermis and dermis. The epidermis consists of many layers of dead skin which are supported by the dermis. The dermis is a three dimensional network of collagen fibres and elastin, surrounded by a gel-like substance called the Ground substance. This determines the stability of the skin. We know that the ground substance is composed glycosaminoglycans (formerly called mucopolysaccharides), non-collagen proteins and water.
Until recently, the importance of glycosaminoglycans in skin physiology has been largely overlooked when compared to topics such as pH, nucleic acid replacement, and protein composition. Pharmaceutical and biochemical research indicates that glycosaminoglycans promote the ability of collagen fibres to retain water and bind moisture into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. Collagen is the major fibrous protein of the extracellular connective tissues and comprises from 25% to 35% of our body's protein. Soluble collagen can be compared to a sponge because of its ability to trap water in its intercellular spaces. As collagen ages, the fibres aggregate into larger collagen strands and become less soluble. This less soluble condition, plus the addition of calcium deposits, squeezes the moisture out, induces further aggregation of collagen and causes shrinkage of the fibre length. The net result is a loss of skin turgor and the formation of wrinkles.During the formation of soluble collagen and the collagen fibre, glycosaminoglycans become bound to the peptide chains. These promote the ability of collagen to retain water by holding the soluble fibres apart. The addition of glycosaminoglycans in the Dermalogica products, ensures a replacement of the diminishing amounts in the skin, and results in skin that has more moisture and increased flexibility.

Glycolic Acid is the most versatile and easily absorbed of the Alphahydroxy Acids. Derived from sugar cane, it was developed through scientific research and found to be extremely effective in the treatment of Dermatological conditions including, Acne, fine wrinkles, and changes in skin pigmentation. 
Glycolic acids decrease the "glue" that holds dead cells on the surface of the skin. This allows dead cells to drop away, leaving behind a layer of smoother, softer skin. Glycolic acid also stimulates the skin to make new collagen fibers that help to improve wrinkling and the effects of sun damage. In addition, glycolic acids help dissolve the material that clogs pores allowing the pore to drain better thus decreasing spots and acne formation.
Green Tea(Japanese) Extract Japanese Green Tea is known to contain two active groups of chemicals known as xanthines and polyphenols or catechins. The xanthines include components such as caffeine, theobromine and theophylline. These active agents have been demonstrated to suppress inflammation and irritation, and more recently, they have been shown to reduce cellulite. When used in conjunction with hydroxy acids, green tea extract will reduce irritation due to the xanthines. Polyphenols (also known as catechins) exhibit powerful anti-oxidant properties. As a matter of fact, these anti-oxidants are 20 times stronger than Vitamin E. Consequently, green tea extract is considered to play a vital role in protecting the cell from free radical damage initiated by environmental factors such as exposure to UV light.
Hyaluronic Acid Extremely moisturizing to the skin. Holds up to 370% more moisture than even the Collagen protein molecule. Binds and retains essential moisture in the skin layers and reduces fine lines caused by dehydration.

Hydrocotyl Extract Originally found in India, hydrocotyl extract (Centella asiatica) is listed in Indian Ayurvedic medicine to combat excessively dry skin. More recently, studies at the Department of Dermatology in Strasbourg indicate its use as a strong anti-inflammatory agent, effective in the treatment of wounds, ulcers and lymphatic edema. Particularly suited to the fragile skin around the eyes, hydrocotyl extract assists in reducing inflammation and sensitivity of the skin.

Hydroquinone inhibits melanin production when applied to the skin. The effect is reversible by exposure to ultraviolet light. Hydroquinone in 2% solutions is used in many skin lightening creams and gels to remove freckles, age spots, and other hyperpigmented areas of the skin.

Ivy Extract Extracted from the evergreen climbing plant, native to Europe and Asia. A natural diuretic and cleansing extract, well known for its skin refining actions. Firming and tightening to the tissues.
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Kelp Extract Extracted from a north American species of brown seaweed, Macrocystis pyriferae. High in silicon, which is believed to keep the skin from wrinkling and sagging, kelp is considered an important nutrient source for cells. It has been used to treat anemia and in cases of obesity because of its high iodine content, which has a normalizing effect on the thyroid.

Lactic Acid Dermalogica uses a lactic acid complex obtained from molasses through an exclusive anaerobic bio-fermentation process. This process yields a high purity lactic acid, which is of great value in retexturizing the skin surface and stimulating cell renewal. Lactic acid, being an alpha hydroxy acid with three carbons, diminishes the cohesion of surface skin cells and subsequently, prevents the thickening of the stratum corneum. Lactic Acid is absorbed across the stratum corneum to the lower layers of this section of the epidermis, and assists in cell detachment from that level. The resulting smoothness and flexibility of the skin's surface is evident soon after application. It has a larger molecular size than glycolic acid and is absorbed more gradually across the epidermis with less irritation.

Licorice Extract (dipotassium glycyrrhizate) Extracted from the Licorice plant, Glycyrrhiza Glabra. Inhibits melanin biosynthesis while scavenging free radicals (antioxidant) and helping to calm the skin.

Liquid Crystal Cholesteric Esters Microencapsulated strands of cholesterol lipids for skin repair and moisturizing. Highly-absorptive crystals carry active ingredients into the deeper layers of the epidermis. Similar in action to a liposomal effect, the crystals have an opalescent appearance in the product.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate A stabilized form of vitamin C that does not oxidize upon exposure to air. An antioxidant that is linked to collagen synthesis.

Micronised marine algae Derived from seaweeds and processed under cold pressure explosion to form a fine powder. Softening and moisturizing to the skin, algae also has detoxifying and diuretic properties.
Microsponges Microscopic spheres capable of absorbing skin secretions, therefore reducing oiliness and shine from the skin. Spherical particles composed of clusters of even tinier spheres. Capable of holding four times their weight in skin secretions. Clinical studies demonstrated that the use of microsponges in a lotion reduced perceived oiliness on the skin by 50%; shine was reduced by 20%.

Milk Protein A soothing, skin cleansing preparation. A natural protein complex used for its mild cleansing properties and soothing action on the skin. Milk compresses can be used to soothe an allergic skin reaction and are used in cleansing preparations for their mild action.

Neroli oil Extracted from orange flowers and helps improve circulation. A warming and relaxing oil which has a gently stimulating effect.

Papain A digestive enzyme, collected from papaya fruit. Papain hydrolyzes proteins and has a proteolytic capacity (digests proteins). Papain has the ability to digest dead tissue without affecting the surrounding live tissue, and has gained itself the reputation as a "biological scalpel." It is used in digestive aids and as the active ingredient in enzyme cleaners for soft contact lenses. Papain contains 212 amino acids and is also rich in malic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid.

Pro-Vitamin B5 Often called the "beautifying" vitamin, Panthenol stimulates skin healing while providing deep moisturization.

Retinyl Palmitate  (AKA Vitamin A palmitate)
Acts as a natural exfoliant.  It helps rid the skin of dead skin cells, helping the skin stay soft and plump.  It is also an antioxidant. Clinical studies of the benefits of  vitamin A palmitate indicate a significant change in skin composition, with increase in collagen, DNA, skin thickness, and elasticity.

Retinol
A Vitamin A derivative, can act as a keratinization regulator, helping to improve the skin's texture, firmness and smoothness.  Vitamin A is believed to be essential for the generation and function of skin cells.

Rose Hip Extract Very rich in natural Vitamin C. Moisturizing and hydrating to the skin. Helps protect the skin from capillary damage and firms and tones the tissues. Helps moisture bind in the connective tissue proteins of the skin.

Rosemary Oil Extracted from the plant, Rosmarinus officinalis. Used for its purifying, cleansing and antiseptic properties.

sage oil Extracted from the plant, Salvia officinalis. An astringent, antiseptic oil used for its sedating and calming effects on the skin.

Salicylic Acid Occurs naturally in wintergreen leaves, sweet birch and selected plants. This Beta Hydroxy Acid improves the appearance and condition of the skin. Its micro-exfoliating action causes a slow movement of the superficial cells that are already old, forcing the deep layers to replace them with younger cells. In addition to its exfoliating action, salicylic acid is also used an anti-microbial in medicine.
 
Silica Microbeads Fine, silica microbeads have a true sphere shape with a hollow centre, providing unique carrying abilities. Since the beads can hold and absorb materials, they are used to protect delicate plant extracts in a tightly-compacted and heat resistant carrier molecule. In addition to their function as a delivery system, Silica Microbeads also impart a smoothness and resilient texture to the skin, as they possess a "ball-bearing," silky emolliency. Combined with three other silicone bases in the formula (cyclomethicone, magnesium aluminum silicate and C 12-15 alkyl octanoate), they leave an improved feel to the skin, with less oiliness and no sticky residue.

Sodium Hyaluronate Component of the skin. Natural lubricant and humectant.

Sodium PCA Occurs naturally in human skin and is responsible for binding moisture to the cells. Highly water-absorbing and used as an excellent humectant. A component of the NMF (natural moisturizing factor).

Sorbitol Found in ripe berries, seaweed and algae. A humectant which gives a velvety feel to the skin. Attracts water to itself and helps bind moisture to the skin surface.

Time-Release System Technology
Time-Release System uses molecular sized sponges that, when added to a product, become fully saturated with that product.  After application of the product to the skin, the time-release systems slowly break down, starting the slow time-release of the product.

Tea Tree Oil Extracted from the plant, Melaleuca Alternifolia. Used for its antiseptic, analgesic and anti-bacterial properties; also aids in healing and soothing skin. Many of Dermalogica's formulas for acne-prone skin contain Tea Tree encapsulated in a polysaccharide capsule known as Cyclodextrin, a revolutionary system for treating acne-prone skin.

Thyme Oil Extracted from the plant, Thymus vulgaris. Used for its antiseptic properties.

Titanium Dioxide(microcrystalline) Up until now, only sunscreens based on organic ultra-violet light absorbers were available. Although effective, these chemical compounds are unsuitable for around the eye area, due to their irritant-potential. Microcrystalline Titanium Dioxide is a new inorganic natural material, which functions as a sunblock to both UVA and UVB rays.

Vitamin A Improves skin elasticity, moisture content and suppleness while reversing the signs of photo-aging. Skin deficient in this nutrient appears rough, unevenly-thickened and dry.
Vitamin A Palmitate Known as "retinyl" palmitate. Reduces skin dryness and flaking, and aids healthy cell reproduction. Applied topically, it activates the epidermis and helps the skin cells of the stratum corneum bind together.

Vitamin C The most popular antioxidant, Vitamin C is a required component in the production of collagen, the tissue responsible for skin suppleness. Moreover, Vitamin C has been shown to help slow the production of hyperpigmentation ("age spots") while providing some UV protection (anti-inflammatory).

Vitamin E Vitamin E plays a crucial role in protecting skin cells and membranes from environmental damage. It also provides deep moisturization and calms inflammation.

Vitamin F An essential fatty acid, this vitamin helps form the membranes that protect the skin cells, preventing the formation of dry, scaly skin.

Willow Bark Extract Extracted from the white willow tree, Salix alba. One of the original sources of salicin, the chemical that led to the introduction of aspirin. An anti-inflammatory agent delivered to the skin cells in liposomes that enhance penetration through the epidermis. Causes a mild keratolytic effect making it an excellent ingredient for acne treatment products.

Yeast Extract Derived from yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae), this extract comprised of a complex mixture of proteins, sugars and amino acids acts as an excellent humectant and may be instrumental in enhancing the rate of cell turnover in the skin. Because its properties are analogous to soluble collagen, it is often referred to as pseudocollagen. Recent studies indicate that extracts of yeast also aid in reducing hyperpigmentation by blocking melanin biosynthesis.

Ylang-Ylang Oil Extracted from the fragrant white flowers of the plant, the oil is used for strongly cleansing and refining properties. Helps clear congestion and smooths the skin.